Annie Leibovitz ‘Wonderland Fashion – D1SoftballNews.com

An avalanche of agony, success and controversy, make it Lena Dunham one of the most troubling “girls” of her troubled generation and seasons of the controversial HBO series that she thought, wrote, directed, and starred in for years. A lively provocation framed in the window of luxury department stores on New York’s Fifth Avenue (Bergdorf Goodman), loved by celebrities and style icons, from Jackie Kennedy to Sarah Jessica Parker. Perfect for starting a trip to the Wonderland photographed by Annie Leibovitz over the past two decades, along with the reality of so many fictions exhibited in the Hauser & Wirth of Southampton, while the monograph of the same name by Phaedo.

In fact, this is the first anthology devoted exclusively to the fashion wonderland of a true icon of photography. Longed not only by the jet set, for the naturalness unearthed with the craftsmanship and the emotional sensitivity that has been offered to everyone for five decades, reciprocated with prestigious awards such as the most recent prix de Photography William Klein 2021. Appreciated for her ability to follow the insights that made many of her works famous, including the portrait of Patty Smith (also used for the album cover Gone again) and that of Queen Elizabeth the second, the white made-up face of Meryl Streep and the black body of Whoopi Goldberg dipped in a milk can.

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Annie Leibovitz, Kate Moss, Paris, 1999, 2021. Archived pigment print, edition of 8 (81.3 x 97.2 cm / 32 x 38 1/4)

© Annie Leibovitz, Courtesy the artist and Hauser & Wirth NY for Annie Leibovitz. Wonderland

The famous snapshot of John Lennonnaked like the vulnerability with which he embraces his lover Yoko Ono, a few hours before the former Beatles were murdered. There is the correlate of the 90s, with Johnny Depp Hugging dress Kate Moss, perfectly comfortable with the sensual, non-standard nudity of fashion, but not the 90s preparing to change it forever, along with a lot more. The same direct and seductive look that illuminates more than the jewels of Dior.

She has the same direct and seductive gaze that illuminates more than Dior’s jewels. More permanent than fashionable glamor, which her rebellious verve wears like a second skin, together with the first collection by Sean Combs, better known at the time as the rap superstar with many nicknames (Puff Daddy, Puffy, Diddy, P. Diddy, brotherly love). Puff takes Paris, photographed by Annie Leibovitz for Vogue America in October 1999, immortalizes the first encounter between Parisian fashion and the world of hip-hop, along with the elements that make Diddy the first African-American menswear designer of the year at the 2004 CFDA Awards the horizon for a new generation of designers.

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Just the first in a series of fashion editorials the photographer has done for Vogue for over twenty years, following many reports for Rolling Stone and portraits published at Vanity Fair. Issued together with the homage to the giants of fashion photography, dedicated in 2001, who created the terrified Ben Stiller of Zoolander, in a transparent plexiglass bubble, as in the suggestive series Bubble by Melvin Sokolsky. That time travel also returns to the Plaza Hotel at the foot of a mountain of pillows and Sarah Jessica Parker, ready to be sold and converted into luxury apartments.

He touches Spain with his narrative talent and the return of Penélope Cruz for the film adaptation of a story loosely based on it The sun rises too by Hemingway, photographed with bullfighter Cayetano Rivera Ordóñez, great-grandson of the famous matador who inspired the character of the novel. A connected and still bleeding bullfighter (after being impaled) under tight trousers testifies to the careful research and obsessive attention to detail that characterizes every shot by the photographer.

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The photographer, who uses the potential of fiction to bring the reality of the fabulous before one’s eyes, uses the freedom of expression of fairy tales and literary salons with the same rigor with which she frames the world on Virginia Woolf’s desk, the infinity of a garden in the herbarium by Emily Dickinson, traces of history and stories in the skeleton of a pigeon studied by Charles Darwin, or the subversive load of Leigh Bowery’s creations carried to deform her massive and asymmetrical body. The famous protagonists of the art world in 2006 also catapult us onto the set of his solo exhibition The Wizard of Oz, made with Keira Knightley’s Dorothy, at the same time as the restoration of Victor Fleming’s 1939 film version.

No one better than little Alice can accompany us in Annie Leibovitz ‘Wonderland fashion, because the very young Natalia Vodianova appeared in a suit made of Chanel Haute Couture embroidered satin, immersed in the lush upholstery of an armchair and the vegetation that appeared on the end of 2003 Cover of the December issue of Vogue America, which opens the editorial inspired by the literary masterpiece of Louis Carrol, with the complicity of fashion editor of Grace Coddington magazine.

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The fantastic adventures of the controversial Victorian writer’s and photographer’s childhood friend are relived in every shot of Annie Leibovitz, inspired by the original drawings from John Tenniel’s book, with Vodianova wearing the blue dresses made for her by each accompanying designer. Starting with Karl Lagerfeld, who would have liked to have been the White Rabbit while he is the only one in his unmistakable outfit, with Chrome Hearts necklaces and belts.

Get ready with a tour of the exhibition or a stroll through the 244 pages of the monograph, which is available in signed copies and in the Luxury Edition, to see Tom Ford’s upside-down white rabbit, Marc Jacobs’ caterpillar sitting on a mushroom, to meet the carefree twins Tweedledee and Tweedledum (Pincopanco and Pancopinco) by Victor & Rolf or the March Hare by Christian Lacroix, among many. Beware of the ambush of the Cheshire Cat, also known as the witch’s cat, with the unmistakable sailor T-shirt and the smile of Jean-Paul Gautier, while I wish you an encounter with the woman behind and in front of the lens of the great photographer.

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All the women who made his Pirelli calendar and the portrait of the heterogeneous universe of Mrs, created with the intellectual and sentimental complicity of an icon of the feminist generations like Susan Sontang and three daughters born with artificial insemination.

She, strict but always intense, with loose hair, soap and water make-up, a basic look in black that has become a trendy style, as well as her fashion photography, which does not immortalize the clothes, but dresses them with bodies , Roles, together to fantasies and longings that save us from the difficulty of being human. A well-condensed approach in the final take that closes the book and the mind-blowing career of Alexander McQueen, who committed suicide on the first day of New York Fashion Week 2010 with his latest AW ’10 collection Untitled / angels and demons, photographed with Grace Coddington still in the shipping boxes.

How one: Annie Leibovitz. Wonderland, Hauser & Wirth Southampton NY (November 6 – December 23, 2021) www.hauserwirth.com/hauser-wirth-exhibitions/33791-annie-leibovitz-wonderland – Monographic book, Phaidon, 440 pag, 330 ill – www.phaidon .com / store / photography / annie-leibovitz-wonderland-9781838661526

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